Turf's Up! Radio

Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

2012-02-23T09:59:00.000-08:00

Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

The Environmental Protection Agency defines specific products that contain pesticides as restricted use products. Pesticides are categorized into four main substituent chemicals: herbicides; fungicides; insecticides and bactericides. Following these guidelines is known as Integrated Pest Management, (IPM). The EPA is constantly updating regulations on restricted use products and KentuckyBlue.Com complies with their updates.

We at KentuckyBlue.Com are very concerned about keeping you, your family and your pets as safe as possible, while making sure our environment is not harmed. The products we apply to eradicate weeds, disease and pests in your lawns are restricted use products as regulated by the EPA. While KentuckyBlue.Com, the applicator, and the EPA cannot guarantee that the products we use are safe, it is our responsibility and our goal to apply any State registered products to your lawn and plants in a safe manner, much like you use ordinary household products such as Windex or Pine Sol. A well planned lawn program (IPM) is the key to having a healthy, thick, weed and disease free lawn and knowing the products and quantities that are necessary to get the job done right will ensure that we maintain a safe, healthy environment.

New Jersey requires all commercial applicators to be licensed before applying any pesticides. This license requires the applicators to pass classes that emphasis SAFETY and HANDLING as well as being able to correctly identify weeds, disease and pests. The applicators must be responsible to ensure that the products they use are the right ones and the correct quantities to eradicate lawn or plant issues since the application of restricted use products is so important in keeping our environment safe.

New Jersey has recently initiated a law that requires applicators to be licensed to even apply fertilizer. The State also restricts the total quantities of registered products that are allowed to be applied during one growing season. Knowing these products, the quantities permitted and legitimately following them is almost impossible when a program is not carefully planned. This all falls under IPM standards.

We at KentuckyBlue.Com have a plan which not only adheres to the State's requirements of regulations and restrictions, but pledges to keep every lawn healthy, thick and green while preserving our environment.
To learn more about how our plan (IPM) will work for you, your lawn and our environment, check out our "Monthly lawn program" or give us a call. 1-888-722-7374

Chimnea and Outdoor Fireplace Safety

2011-11-02T04:45:00.000-07:00

The use of Chimneas and outdoor fireplaces is becoming

increasingly popular in backyards throughout Cherry Hill.

Although their use is allowed under the state fire code,

there are restrictions residents need to be aware of.

Keeping to the requirements and safety tips will assure a

safe and enjoyable outdoor experience.

Fire Code Requirements

chimney (flue) or spark screen. Use of an open fire pit is

prohibited.

All wood burning devices must be equipped with either a

yard debris is not permitted.

Use only seasoned fire wood. Burning leaves, trash or

left unattended, it must be extinguished.

The fire must be attended at all times. If the fire is to be

attached deck/patio of apartments or multi family

dwellings.

Use of these devices are prohibited on any balcony or

General Safety Practices

your house.

Locate the fireplace at least fifteen (15) feet away from

combustible material or item.

Maintain a minimum distance of three (3) feet from any

Do not use during a high wind condition.

surface such as a brick or concrete patio.

The fireplace should be located on a non-combustible

your eight year old start the fire.

Never use a flammable liquid to start the fire. Do not let

twenty four (24) hours. Keep the ashes in a metal waste

can with a tight fitting metal lid and keep it AWAY FROM

THE HOUSE.

Prior to removing ashes, allow them to cool for at least

Smoke and other products of combustion can have an

impact on surrounding yards and be drawn into neighboring

Keep your neighbors in mind while burning outdoors.

Be sure to include Grub control treatments in your Monthly Lawn Care Program

2011-10-14T05:26:00.000-07:00

Grub Control

Beetle grubs are a major cause of lawn damage each spring and fall in our area. Grubs are the larvae stage of beetle cycles. Adult beetles lay eggs from early to mid summer. In a short time the eggs develop into grubworms which begin to feed on grass roots from mid summer until fall's cooler soil temperatures force them to seek refuge at deeper soil depths. The grubs then hibernate until spring temperatures warm the soil. They then resume feeding until they pupate or "hatch" into mature beetles anywhere from late May through mid July.

The Damage

The resulting damage (which may show until the summer or
early in the spring) appears as brown patches of dead turf
that enlarge as the grubs continue to feed. To check for
grubs, pull at a section of dead turf. It will roll back like a
swatch of carpet. Dig down at the edge of a damaged area
and you will find the grubworms themselves; grayish, white
grubs with gray or brown heads, approximately 1/2" to 3/4" long. They will be curled into
the shape of the letter "C'. Immature grubs are milky gray in color and resemble elongated
eggs. They will be about 1/4" long.

Control

There are many variables in trying to achieve maximum grub control, including the type of
grub, the timing and type of insecticide, the amount of thatch, and how well the insecticide
is watered into the soil. Remember that maximum control is usually 80% to 90%.
An otherwise healthy lawn can tolerate 4-6 grubs per square foot without showing grub
damage.

It is essential that any insecticide you apply be watered in immediately and thoroughly
after application. Water each area treated for at least one hour.The best time to treat
for grubs is mid-April to mid-May and July to mid-September. Both Merit and Dylox
are relatively safe for humans and the environment. The active ingredients in both are
very low and are broken down by soil organisms. Yet, Dylox and Merit are both effective
grub controls when timely and properly applied.

Merit (Bayer's Season Long Grub Control or Grub Beater) gives 98% control of grubs
when applied from July 1st - August 15th. It is best to water the product in well shortly
after application.

Dylox (Bayer's 24 hour Grub Kiler) has less of a residual effect and is best applied from
August 15th - September 15th and watered in thoroughly. Basically, Dylox breaks down
quickly and should be applied when you check for grubs and see them. Dylox may be
applied in early to mid April to kill resurfacing grubs, but since most of the grub damage
is done in early fall, hitting grubs then is most effective.

A good idea is to rotate these products by using one product one year and the other
product the next year so that a resistant population of grubs cannot build up. Be sure to have KentuckyBlue.Com include these treatments in your "Monthly Lawn Care" Program.

Call KentuckyBlue.Com @ 1-888-722-7374 for the proper application of Dylox
and Merit for maximum grub control today!

How to ensure your lawn will grow healthy and strong.

2011-10-12T06:33:00.000-07:00

Watering is essential to life—too little water and we die, too much and we drown. The same is true of the grass in our lawns. Water makes up 70 to 80% of the weight of our lawn grasses and the clippings alone are nearly 90% water.

Newly planted seed has very important watering needs. Proper watering immediately after aeration and seeding will ensure the seed begins to germinate. Daily watering is crucial during the initial 3-4 weeks. The most important thing for your new seed to germinate properly is that it stay moist.

Proper watering techniques are a critical aspect of lawn watering, equal in importance are when to water, and how much to water. Here are several key factors to proper technique:

AVOID HAND SPRINKLING because it cannot provide the necessary uniformity as most people do not have the patience, time or "eye" to adequately measure what is being applied across large areas. The only possible exception to this guideline would be the need to syringe the surface of the grass to cool it, or to provide additional water near buildings or other heat-reflecting surfaces.

Understand the advantages of different sprinkler designs, because each type has its advantages and disadvantages and its proper use will be determined by the type of sprinkler you select.

In-Ground Systems require professional design and installation and they require routine adjustments and regular maintenance to be most effective and efficient. The greatest mistake made with most in-ground systems is the "set it and forget it" philosophy that fails to account for the changing seasonal water requirements or even allowing the system to operate during or following a multi-inch rain storm.

Another frequent problem is when heads get out of alignment and apply water to the sidewalk, street or house-siding, rather than to the lawn.

Hose-End Sprinklers range in complexity, cost and durability, but are highly portable and can provide uniform and consistent coverage when properly placed on the yard and adequately maintained.

Sprinklers that do not throw the water high into the air are usually more efficient because prevailing winds are less disruptive of distribution patterns, evaporation loss is reduced and trees, shrubs and other plants do not block the pattern (or are very noticeable if they do).

Several times during the growing/watering season, routine maintenance to check for blocked outlets, leaking or missing gaskets, or misaligned sprinkler heads is important, regardless of the sprinkler design.

WHEN TO WATER YOUR NEWLY SEEDED LAWN
Always water in the morning. Typically starting at 5:00 a.m. (that's of course if you have an irrigation system) is a good starting time. The time you start ultimately determines when your system turns off. This can have an effect on your water pressure inside your home (shower, toilet, etc.) so ideally you want to program your clock to finish right before your household will be utilizing the water indoors. Benefits: 1) Virtually no water loss from the sun's evaporation, 2) watering at night or right before can set your lawn up for fungus invitation (damp/dark), 3) turf is already cool so there is not a shock from cool water on a lawn that has been baking all day in 90 degree weather.

Watering difficult areas such as slopes, under trees, and in complete shade require some special attention to achieve maximum benefit and a beautiful lawn.

Slopes: Runoff may occur on slopes before the soil is adequately moist. To conserve water and ensure adequate soak-in, turn off the water when runoff begins, wait 30-minutes to an hour and restart the watering on the same area, repeating this start and stop process, until proper soil moisture is achieved.

Areas Under and Near Trees: You need to know the water requirements for the specific trees, as well as for the grass. Despite having deep "anchor" roots, trees take up moisture and nutrients from the top six inches of soil...the same area as the grass. Trees and turf will compete for water. Watering sufficiently for the grass may over-water some varieties of trees and under-water others. A common solution is to not plant grass under the drip-line of trees, but rather use that area for perennial ground-covers, flower beds or mulch beds.

Areas in Complete Shade: Where there are trees, there is also shade. Shade can be a good thing to help sod from drying up too quickly or from getting burned, although to much shade will inhabit the growth of the sod, keeping it from getting it's much needed sunlight. Sod in shaded areas may have a tendancy to hold moisture because of the lack of air flow and sunlight which can also rot and kill sod. Water heavily initially (first watering), and then water as needed using the moisture test by pulling up a corner of the sod and checking how wet the soil is below. The soil should be moist 1-2" below sod. With all that said, sod can perform very well in shade if the extra time is taken in monitoring the correct water consumption.

Watering uniformity can be accomplished with a very simple and inexpensive method that uses only 4 to 6 flat-bottomed, straight-sided cans (tuna fish, cat food, etc.), a ruler and a watch.

FOLLOW THESE STEPS:

Arrange the cans at random distances away from any sprinkler, but all within the area you assume is being covered.
Run the sprinkler for a specific amount of time, say a half-hour OR run the water until a specific amount of water is in at least one can, say 1/2 an inch.
Measure the amount of water in each can, checking for uniformity. Some variation is expected, but a difference of 10 percent or more between any two cans must be addressed by replacing or adjusting the sprinkler or relocating the system.

This measuring method should be used across an entire lawn that has an in-ground irrigation system to assure maximum coverage and uniformity.

The amount of water your lawn requires and receives will determine its overall health, beauty and ability to withstand use and drought. Keep in mind that too much water can ruin a lawn, just as fast, as too little. One inch a week is the standard water requirement established for most lawns; however, this will vary between different turf species and even among cultivars within a species. There will also be varying water requirements for seasonal changes and still more differences brought about because of different soil types.

Look at your lawn to determine its water needs. Grass in need of water will have a grey-blue cast to it, rather than a blue-green or green color. Also, footprints will still appear after a half-hour or more on a lawn in need of water, while on a well watered lawn footprints will completely disappear within minutes. Grass over watered will have a yellowish tint to it and will need to dry out.

Use a soil probe, such as a screwdriver or large spike to determine how dry your lawn is. If the probe can be pushed into the soil easily, it's probably still moist, but if it takes a lot of pressure to push in, it's time to water.

Verify watering quantities with the same measuring can method described inside, except you will want to note the time it takes for the cans to collect a specific amount of water. For example, if 1/4 an inch collects in 30 minutes, you can easily calculate that it will take one hour to apply 1/2 inch of water or two hours to apply 1 inch.

Water timers can help provide consistency and even be programmed or set to turn-off when no one is awake or at home. Some timers measure just the amount of time water is flowing through the device and you have to know or calculate how long to set the timer for (see item above). Other units measure the number of gallons of water flowing through it. Knowing that 600 gallons per 1,000 square feet equals one-inch of water will help you calculate the timer settings your lawn will require.

Renting tools can be the way to go!

2011-10-02T05:31:00.000-07:00

Are you getting ready to take on a Landscape project yourself but you don't have the tools? Well, don't worry, most rental companies can and will rent you any kind of tool you need to get the job done. They will even rent you a shovel if you need one. The rental company you choose will make sure you become familiar with the machine you are renting and make sure you are comfortable before you leave their shop.

The only trick is knowing which is the right tool to use for the job you're doing and how to use the tool to get the job done correctly. So, be sure tune in to Turf's Up! live at 9:AM on Sundays to 107.7theBronc or listen on demand anytime at http://www.1077thebronc.com/ to hear free advice about your project.

I invite you to send all questions you may have to Kentuckyblue.com@gmail.com. I will do my best to answer you right away or you can hear about your project on my next show.

The following is just a short list of photos that can be rented. Most rental companies have just about everything you will need to tackle your Do it Yourself Project.

Rentals

Aerator

Bed Edger

Power Rake

Tuffy Tiller

Bush Hog 5'

Escavator

Ferris

New Holland Back Hoe

Plugger

Power Seeder

Rake

Ram Rod

Skid Steer

Small Backhoe

Tiller

Tractor

Planning to seed this fall? Beware of the Vole in your yard!

2011-09-28T07:03:00.000-07:00

Tips for Repelling Moles and Voles

If you’ve ever witnessed your lawn or garden seemingly overtaken with moles or voles, you know it's no laughing matter. Looking at the destruction caused by moles and voles can be quite frustrating and exasperating. However, armed with determination, perseverance and knowledge of the “enemy” you can get control of the situation and outwit the little critters.

A Little Bit About Moles

Moles are insectivores (insect-eating) and belong to the same family as shrews and bats. From the tip of their nose to their tail, moles vary in size from 4 to 8 inches. They have large paddle-like front feet with prominent claws designed for very efficient digging. Moles have very tiny eyes and lack external ears. While moles are virtually blind, they can detect dark and light. They have elongated heads and snouts and short necks. Their fur can vary from brown to black to gray. They are rarely seen as they live underground. Their diet consists of earthworms, grubs, insects and larvae.
Moles are solitary animals that come together to breed once a year in late winter to early spring. The gestation period ranges from 2-4 weeks and they usually give birth to a littler of four to six young. The young leave their nests after about 4 weeks after birth.
Moles make their dens in areas under trees, buildings and sidewalks. A mole’s den may consist of many chambers connected with runways. These deeply dug runways provide the mole passage from his living area to his hunting grounds as well as provide protection against predators such as foxes, coyotes, dogs, snakes, skunks, badgers, weasels, hawks and owls. The more shallow tunnels near or at the surface of the ground are hunting grounds for moles. It is through these tunnels that moles look for their food and often these tunnels are used only once by the mole.

What Good Are Moles?

It may be hard to envision anything good about moles especially if you’ve twisted your ankle on a mole tunnel. Despite our feelings, moles do fit in with nature’s grand plan and provide a very valuable service when it comes to managing soil and sub-soils. The tunneling activity of moles loosens soil providing aeration. As the mole tunnels, soils shift blending the surface soil with deeper sub-soil thereby improving overall soil quality. In addition, moles consume the numerous garden pest insects, grubs and larvae. They are hearty eaters consuming up to 100% of their body weight daily. Although you may need to move the moles out of your lawn, realize that a mole may have eaten a good share of Japanese Beatle grubs. Try to find some consolation in that.

Recognizing Mole Activity in your Garden

The two most common signs of mole activity are raised ridged areas in lawns and the traditional molehill. The ridges are caused by tunneling just below the surface of the ground. The cone-shaped molehill is formed by the dirt a mole excavates as he digs his deeper tunnels around his den and living chambers.

Problems Caused by Moles
Moles can be a very big problem for the homeowner. Their tunneling can wreck havoc on lawns causing unsightly ridges in lawns and they can damage the root system of turf causing the raised areas of grass to dry out and die. Their tunneling may uproot plants and flowers causing plant damage and death. Moles actively feed day and night all year long. With the ability to tunnel up to 100 feet in a single day (about 15 feet per hour) it’s important to take action to control moles immediately.

A little bit about Voles

Voles are rodents and belong to the same family as rats and mice. They vary in size from 3 to 5 inches from nose to tail and have stouter bodies and shorter tails than mice. Meadow voles live above ground and pine voles live underground. Voles may be active both day and night. They spend most of their time in tunnel systems one to a few inches below the ground. Voles eat grasses, roots, tubers and other plant material, as well as seeds, fruits, bark and underground fungi. Voles are also known as meadow mice, field mice and pine mice.
Voles are prolific breeders and can produce four to six litters a year. The gestation period is about 3 weeks. Litter sizes can vary from 2 to 5. They reach maturity in about 40 days and can live up to two years.
Generally, voles prefer grassy areas and underbrush where their runways and grass tunnels are not easily spotted from predators such as hawks, owls, foxes, snakes and cats. They will readily use and feed within tunnels created by moles.

How to Recognize Vole Activity in Your Garden

Signs of voles in your garden may include runways on the surface of the ground on in your lawn. The runways may be about one to two inches wide. A vole's burrow can be identified by holes found in lawns or around the base of trees. The grass immediately surrounding the hole will be very short. Unlike a molehill, there is no soil mounding around the opening.

How to Recognize Vole Damage in Your Garden

Vole damage can occur at all times of the year. In the winter, when food supply is short, voles will gnaw the bark on shrubs and along the root collar of small trees. This can cause severe damage or even kill young trees. Plants that voles have eaten will be left with a pointed tip at the end of the stem. When voles eat roots and tubers underground, your faced with a dead plant that when lifted has no visible root structure left.

How to Control Moles and Voles in Your Garden

Many methods, humane and otherwise, are used for ridding moles and voles from gardens and home lawns. Methods that include killing moles and voles by trapping and poison is one option. However, Voles are a protected species in some areas. Check with your local animal regulations regarding voles.

Barrier Methods to Control Moles and Voles.

Trenching: One type of barrier that can be used is to dig a trench around your garden. This may only be practical in smaller vegetable gardens.
Wire Screen Mesh: Another barrier method is to line a garden bed with hardware cloth. For moles, the barrier needs to be dug to a depth of 30 inches and extend 5-6 inches above the ground. This can be a rather labor intensive task, not to mention impractical in anything but a tiny garden.
Wire screening can effectively be used to keep voles from destroying tree trunks by wrapping mesh around the trunk and reaching at least 18-20 inches high.
Bulbs may be protected from voles by building wire cages around the planting of bulbs. Depending on the soil conditions and the number of bulbs, this can be another time consuming task.
Ultrasonic and Vibration Devices that rid Moles and Voles from your Yard. These devices produce intermittent pulses that are intended to annoy moles and voles chasing them off your property.

Moles do eat grubs. Grubs are generally considered garden pests, so getting rid of grubs may be beneficial to your lawn and garden as well. It is preferable to use products that are environmentally safe to eliminate the grubs. Effective alternative to toxic chemicals should always be the first resort!

Kitty Litter as a Mole and Vole Repellent

There are suggestions that used kitty litter sprinkled in mole and vole every three feet will repel the moles and voles. Whether it actually works or not is debatable and placement would be critical to be effective. Since moles can dig an elaborate and extensive tunnel system, determining the right runs and tunnels to treat could be daunting and frustrating task.
April showers do more than bring May flowers. Spring rains keep rodent populations in check. Both the adult and young of many animals that nest along or in the ground are susceptible to drowning.

Chewing Gum to Get Rid of Moles?

There are numerous references that a piece of (chewed) gum placed in a mole hole will entice a mole. The mole is supposed to ingest, or choke on the gum and die. Since moles are insectivores, there is doubt that moles would actually be attracted to chewing gum.

Household Chemicals to Repel Moles and Voles?

The following suggestions employ commonly found household chemicals. Their mention is included only to cover the various methods that people talk about. There is no evidence of them being effective. And they reach beyond the targeted pest. Furthermore, there are serious health and environmental considerations to using these chemicals as suggested and they should not be considered.
Some suggestions for repelling Moles and Voles include pouring ammonia down the holes and burrows of moles and voles. An alternative method is to soak cloth in ammonia and then shove the cloth down the holes. Another household chemical that is used in a similar fashion to repel moles and voles is chlorine bleach.

Mothballs or moth flakes are also touted as a supposed mole and vole repellent. Again, the idea is to sprinkle the moth balls down the holes, tunnels and burrows of mole and voles.

Good Gardening Practice

Voles do not live long in areas without habitat. Voles like living in mulch, leaf and grass piles and tall ground covers. To keep voles out of the garden, do not mulch close to trees, and do not leave un-turned piles of leaves and lawn clippings around the yard. Keep mulch around shrubs to a minimum.

If you just want to eliminate them all together, just call KentuckyBlue.Com at 1-888-722-7374

KentuckyBlue.com is your solution for all your lawn and garden needs.

Get what you pay for!

2011-09-16T15:07:00.000-07:00

Be sure to ask questions about the services you are about to receive. Don't be afraid to even ask for a detailed description of the project. In fact, a good contractor welcomes the detailed questions. Not only do we want to prove to you that we know our business well, we love the fact that you are interested in learning how and why we do what we do. Your interest in our performance makes us want to do the best job we can for you. You might say that it gives us a little more motivation towards perfection.

Darren M. Gruner
President
KentuckyBlue.Com

Turf's Up! Radio show

2011-09-15T13:21:00.000-07:00

Turf's Up! Airs every Sunday at 9:30AM on 107.7theBronc. You can listen live then or listen on demand at http://www.1077thebronc.com/.

The show is the first of it's kind. I offer free advice for any and all Landscape projects you can dream of for your outdoor living.

Let me know what you would like me to talk about and I will do my best to accomidate. I may even ask you to call in to discuss your topic right on the radio with me.

The show is getting better and better with every week.

Be sure to tune in. Who knows, we might learn something together!

Darren